A/C L.E.D Conversion
Hey guys,
As promised, another guide, this time it's for converting your exsisting green L.E.Ds to blue ones.
What you will need
(this is for a JDM spec A/C control unit, not the UK spec one)
14 x 3mm L.E.Ds (Any colour) - I used 10,000 mcd's from ultraleds, 20 of them, as you will need 2 for the electic window switch.
Philips Screw Driver
Flat head & Philips electrical screw driver
Soldering Iron
Solder
Time: 3-4 Hours, Mine took just under 1 hour, however, all went very smoothly.
As you can see, with JDM ones the De-mister is not lit via LED's, it a 4mm capless jobie, same as the main backlights.
Lets get started:
For those that are unsure about taking the dash apart, Please follow my Dash removal guide.
Now that you have removed all that, and you have the A/C control unit in your hands, you will need to strip that down, like this:
You need to remove the following 4 screws, where the 3 x connector plugs go in, there are a further 2 screws on the reverse side, these need to come out as well:
[img]http://www.imagehosting.com/show.php/i422579_CelicaLED05.JPG[/img]
Once, you have removed the white ABS plastic cover, remove the following 2-3 screws:
[img]http://www.imagehosting.com/out.php/i422577_CelicaLED03.JPG[/img]
To be able to remove the entire PCB, you need to flip the unit over and unclip all of the switch covers:
[img]http://www.imagehosting.com/out.php/i422578_CelicaLED04.JPG[/img]
Now that you have removed the PCB, it should look something similar to this, notice that there are 3 x 4mm backlights:
[img]http://www.imagehosting.com/out.php/i422576_CelicaLED02.JPG[/img]
Now this is where you need to turn your soldering iron on, with the L.E.D's they have Negative and positve terminals, I found that it is easier to de-solder one at a time, and then fit the new one... then move onto the next one, please pay carefull attention to the polarity of the terminals:
[img]http://www.imagehosting.com/out.php/i422575_CelicaLED01.JPG[/img]
Take care when putting it all back together, if it came out of the unit, it needs to go back, it's there for a reason, also don't forget the clear PMMA spiders, there is one at the top for the recirc/fresh air button, and one for the A/C button, there there are 2 more, one for each row of buttons.
Also, when removing the black switch covers, there are 2 clips holding them in place, one at the top, and one on the bottom, these have a lot of play, but like to snap as well - be careful.
When the PCB is out, you need to remove the white ABS clips, they are held on by the blue stalks, I found that pushing a electrical flat head screw driver to separate the contact then angle them off, is a lot easier.
Hope this helps, please let me know if you get stuck.
Matt.
