Rear brake

Heres a full rundown of rear brake disc swap- I dont have my manual to hand, this is all from memory:

1- Jack, chock, take off wheel, n all that rubbish 2- Pop off brake reservoir cap, if nearly full, place rags around it incase retracting the pistons causes overflow 3- Using G clamp (or similar, any method will do) release the rear calliper 4- Remove the 12mm slider bolt from the bottom of the (sticky outy bit) calliper. 5- This allows the calliper to be swung away from the carrier (the bit that bolts to the torque plate (hub)) and the old pads can be removed. 6- Remove 2x 14mm bolts which bolt the carrier (bit that holds the pads) to the torque plate (hub) 7- release handbrake 8- orientate the hole in the disc (the only one which doesnt have a wheel stud coming through it) so that it is at the bottom, pointing ar the floor. 9- Pop off the rubber cap with a small flat blade screwdriver 10- get a torch and have a look inside, you are looking for a cylinder with teeth on it. 11- using a flat blade screwdriver spin this cylinder using the teeth so that it retracts the handbrake shoes. You will know if your going the wrong way as the disc will lock up as if the handbrake has been applied. What this does is closes the shoes inwards to allow the disc to be removed without damaging the faces of the shoe linings with any lips which may have worn into the inside of the drum. 12- Take off disc and put new one on. 13- adjust the cylinder so that it locks the new disc in place as if the handbrake is on. release the adjuster about 4 teeth so that it becomes free. test the handbrake works on 3-4 clicks, ensure it is fully on. If it isnt, adjust to suit.

Do the rest as you would have the fronts- fully retract piston, bolt calliper back on, slap in new pads and roberts yer fathers brother.

Also wouldnt be a bad idea to check the sliders whilst your there too. if there siezed, free them up and re grease them under the rubbers - use synthetic grease though as a mineral one may rot the rubbers quicker.