Revision as of 20:11, 31 March 2009

JDMkid's guide to changing the front shocks

This is a how to I did for the fronts, it is similar for the rears - just be careful with the ABS sensor and ensure that you fully tighten everything and re-seat the top mount correctly!!!

It is best to do in pairs to maintain perfect balance. Thats a good price on the kybs too - are they adjustable? My rear right Koni is a bit shot too!!!!!

Also this how to is for the removal shocks, some Celicas don't have removal shocks, you have to buy the shock and with the mount already built on - check before you buy!!!! (that might just be for the fronts mind)

Anyway here goes:

Step 1: Loosen but don't release the top mount nut, this will make disassembly easier and safer later on.

Step 2: Loosen the x3 bolts that hold the suspension in place on the hub.

Step 3: Unclip and unbolt the ABS sensor (if you have one), no need to remove though, it will probably break in the housing if you try (As I unfortunately learned recently during a CV boot install).

Step 4: Remove x2 strut bolts that connect the lower strut to the Hub assembly and control arms.

Step 5: Simply push the Hub assembly to one side, this will allow a gap below the strut to open, be careful not to stretch any cables such as the brake lines and the ABS sensor.

Step 6: Take off the top three bolts now that you loosened in step 2, but hold on to the strut so it doesn't fall and damage anything. The strut should just slide out through the gap you've made - This may require a bit of jiggling but it will come eventually!

This is what you are left with and the tools you require for disassembly.

Step 7: Use the spring compressors to compress the spring for safety. Completely remove the top nut that holds it all together and then remove top mount, spring, boot and bumper stop.

Step 8: This is the tricky part, use a good solid clamp to hold onto the ring around the mid section of the strut - DO NOT clamp directly on to the strut shaft. I used an extension bar to maximum leverage which really helps to gain grip and torque. SLOWLY loosen the nut, if you feel any slip STOP and tighten the clamp, you DO NOT want to slip at this point.

Step 9: Out with the old, in with the new. Old is on the left, it was shot. When compressed it would leak oil and make a horrible noise, really squishy.

Step 10: Now you need to clean the inside of the cartridge with a few rags and hot soapy water, then dry it out thoroughly and clean the outside whilst your at it - I cleaned every nut, rubber bung, bump stop, spring and mounts.

Then you need to pour in some oil, I used some 10w oil just because thats what I had lying around, this is just to help with heat transfer. You don't need much, like only an inch!!!!

Step 11: In with the New strut, ensure that the oil you put it doesn't over flow, it only needs to be 1 - 1 1/2 inches from the top.

Step 12: Now you need to repeat everything backwards. Take extra special car when doing tightening the new nut as removed in step 8. Use the clamp wrench to slowly tighten and secure the strut in place, then put everything back together. Bump stop, then spring, then boot and spring top, then top mount (Ensuring that the grooves match the grooves on the top of the strut or it won't adjust) and finally the nut which holds everything in place - Don't tighten fully until the strut is in place on the car.

Step 13: For the install, push the strut up into the mounting area, once its aligned use the three nuts to hold it place but don't tighten. Instead push the hub assembly back and re-do the bolts and ABS sensor checking that everything is secure, safe and tight. Put the wheel back on and lower from the jack! Then tighten the strut nut fully and the remaining three top nuts.

back to gen6 Suspension

back to gen6 Maintenance