Difference between revisions of "Battery relocation to the boot"

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(New page: Before we get started it should be pointed out that the difficulty rating and time taken are what I feel are about right, but just want to mention that I had access to a garage so it might...)
 
(No difference)

Latest revision as of 14:45, 21 November 2007

Before we get started it should be pointed out that the difficulty rating and time taken are what I feel are about right, but just want to mention that I had access to a garage so it might have been a bit easier for me that it might be for you, due to time restrictions, I also had to spread the job over 3 days.


Tools & Items required

Tools

  • Socket set (for things that are bolted in :lol: )
  • Torx for removing seats and other bits
  • Screwdrivers - flat and pozi drive (mainly for the silly clips that hold the interior together, and the glove box)
  • Sharp stanley/snap knife (to cut wire insulation and the rubber grommet for the wiring loom, and anything else)
  • A tool to crimp the connector to the battery cable. I had the correct tool but you can use a hammer and a punch (Just make sure it is held onto the cable tightly)

Other items

  • Insulation tape
  • Some battery conectors (I adapted the original ones)
  • A few cable ties (20 ish)
  • Some M6 nuts and bolts (to secure the fuse holders)
  • Self tapping screws (to secure the box, 3/4" long Max as the fuel tank is under the box if you fit it where I did)

Items purchased from vehicle-wiring-products

  • 5MTR 40mmSq black cable (can get red but didn't want it to stand out under the bonnet)
  • Fuse holders x2
  • 4 fuses 2@150amp and 2@100amp (have since uprated the 100 to 125 as I blew it, under the bonnet by the way)
  • 6 cable ends (only needed 4 but got 2 extra)

Day One

I had a mate of mine make me an alloy battery box that is mounted in the rear right corner of the boot.


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Well I say it's mounted, I had it mounted but took it back out to feed the wire in and so the holes can be drilled in the box for the wires to pass through.
So here is the car all stripped out ready for the wires to go under the carpet:


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The wire I have is 40mm diameter and I also bought 2 fuses and obviously the holders to carry them.
100amp and 150 amp
100amp in the engine bay and the 150amp one in the battery box
The 10p piece is to show how big the fuses and holder are.


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This is the place where I have decided to run the wire through (rubber wiring loom gator).


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Carefully (do not cut any wires) I cut the tape off of the start of the rubber gator then cut the rubber gator till it exposed the wire beneath.
Then pushed the new starter cable through the hole, the end appeared on the floor of the car near the other part of the wiring loom. At this point I got a bit of help to slowly pull (well guide really) the end of the wire as I pushed it through the rubber gator.
Once all the cable was pushed through I started to cable tie it to the sill, This will be under the carpet so it's not essential to have it look neat but it will need to be quite secure as people will be standing on the carpet when they get in the car and it may catch and rub and over time, this may create a short if it rubs on a sharp edge and thus cutting through the insulation of the cable.
This is where the cable is routed in the rear of the car:


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Day Two

First I finished off cable tieing the cable to the sill. and creating some protection against the sharp edges (bit of blue vac hose :D )


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Next I decided to make the connection for the under bonnet end of the cable.
So I removed the air box and AFM meter and mounted it where that was utilising the bolt holes for the air box to secure the fuse holder. (I have a K&N kit to go there)


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So that end is now finished, now it's time to do the battery end.
The box I have is quite a lot bigger than it realy needs to be but that said it means I am able to mount the other fuse holder in the battery box, so keeping it out of sight when finished:


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Now the positive cable is all in place I need to sort the negative one.
In regards to the battery end I am going to run the cable to the bolt hole where the jack was kept.


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It's just visible behind the box.
When all the boot's plastic panels are back in place I can still access the panel that covers the jack and tool set up. But I don't think I will be able to get it out with the box in place, so I will leave it loose in the boot just incase :D

Day Three

Ok, the next step was to get the earth connection sorted. Reasonably simple to be honest, it doesn't need to be a thick wire, The original one isn't so I got a length of wire about 12" long, and connected the original negative battery terminal to one end and a smaller connector to the other.
Next, I took all the paint off around the point I am using to earth the car and connected it to the battery:


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There we go that end done :D
Engine end was just as simple.
Originally the negative comes from the engine to the battery then links fron the battery to the front of the car, and bolts on behind the N/S headlight.
I was just going to put one piece of wire in essentially cutting out the negative battery terminal, But I changed my mind and I am using a smaller length of wire and making a new connection on the inner wing:


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Ok, the moment of truth will it work? Battery is connected, all stuff disconnected under the bonnet, reconnected and I must have it right as I have dash lights look:


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And it started too. So a job well done :woohoo: Very satisfied with this one done all by myself :D
And this is a pic I took when all the carpet was back in the boot :D


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