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| − | <center>'''TRD Rear Strut Brace Installation'''</center>
| + | To begin, make sure of course that you have all the components ready. |
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| − | == Items Required For Install ==
| + | 1 – RMM strut bar (duh) |
| | + | 6 – 12 mm silver bolts |
| | + | 1 – replacement battery hold down |
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| − | * 1 x TRD rear strut brace
| + | You DON’T need to jack up the car for this install, start by removing the battery connectors, you’ll see why later. Then take off all of the upper strut plate bolts, they will be very, very tight. Make sure not to strip them if you like to have them for later. |
| − | * Screwdrivers (flat-head and cross-head)
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| − | * Power drill
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| − | * Pilot drill bit (e.g. 3mm)
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| − | * 8mm drill bit
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| − | * Socket and ratchet set
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| − | * Small saw
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| − | * Sticky tape
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| − | * Craft knife
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| − | * Centre punch
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| − | * Sharp point or scribe
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| − | * Round file
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| − | * Vacuum cleaner
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| − | ---- | + | Place the strut bar aligned with the strut bolts and just hand tighten the nuts, and place the battery hold down where the factory one used to be. This hold-down will attach to the long battery screw and nut. |
| | + | NOTE: MAKE SURE YOU DON’T PINCH THE WASHER FLUID LINE ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE ENGINE BAY. |
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| − | Although written instructions are included in the kit, I found one part in particular to be a bit misleading.<br>
| + | Once you made sure the hose is not pinched, reconnect the battery terminals in a 90-degree angle, that way they won’t touch the bar. Finally, tighten down the nuts to the strut threads with enough force that you don’t strip them. |
| − | Therefore, I have written my own install guide in an attempt to make this install a little easier than it was for me should you wish to install one of these strut bars.<br>
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| − | This installation is well within the limits of a competent DIY enthusiast. However, the following instructions are for guidance only.<br>
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| − | I cannot be held responsible for any damage you do to your car.<br>
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| − | 1. Fold the rear seats forward and remove the rear storage tray. The tray comes away when the two plastic popping rivets have
| + | That’s all to it, it will make a big difference, and more if you have your Celica dropped. The turns are stiffer and there is less body roll and frame twist. Add on the rear 3pt. strut bar or TRD and you will really feel the stiffness of the frame. |
| − | been removed (press the centre and pull out).<br>
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| − | 2. Remove the carpet liner, wheel-cover board and then unbolt the two side storage trays.<br>
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| − | 3. Remove the two side panels, taking care to retain the plastic clip anchors inside the recess. You will have to remove a couple
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| − | of plastic rivets (these pop out in the same was as the storage tray ones) and also a couple of black pegs next to the rear seats (turn 90 degrees and pull out).<br>
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| − | 4. The enclosed instructions include three templates. Using these, place the appropriate templates on the side panels and rear
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| − | tray, mark the cut out areas to be removed and then using a saw and/or craft knife, remove the portions of plastic from the trim. Put to one side.<br>
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| − | 5. Unbolt the seat hooks (these hold the seats in place when up).<br>
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| − | 6. Place the bar over the holes where the seat hooks came off and bolt into place, reasonably tight, using both bolts on each side.<br>
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| − | <br>[[Image:DS2_0234_WEB.jpg]]<br>
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| − | <br>[[Image:DS2_0235_WEB.jpg]]<br>
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| − | <br>7. Make sure the large oval hole of the lower bracket on the bar lines up with the same shaped hole on the base of the car.<br>
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| − | <br>[[Image:DS2_0237_WEB.jpg]]<br>
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| − | <br>8. On the side of the bracket, mark the two 8mm holes exactly, preferably by scratching the circles into the paint.<br>
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| − | <br>'''''Warning:''''' '''The instructions tell you to rest the brace on the car, line the oval holes up and then mark for drilling.<br> Do not do this as the holes for the upper brackets that bolt behind the seat hooks will not line up. Bolt the brace to the seat hook holes and ''then'' mark the holes to be drilled on the car.'''<br>
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| − | <br>9. Centre punch the middle of the scratched circles and remove the bar from the car.<br>
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| − | 10. Use a pilot drill bit to drill the two centre dots and then enlarge with the 8mm bit.<br>
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| − | 11. File the rough edges on both sides of the drilled holes.<br>
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| − | 12. Vacuum the swarf away from the area.<br>
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| − | 13. Now insert the lower bracket of the bar through the cutout of the storage tray.<br>
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| − | 14. Loosely place the side panels back in place, but do not secure.<br>
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| − | 15. With careful manipulation and placement, insert the upper brackets through the side panel cutouts with the whole brace swung
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| − | up to the rear of the car (with tray still attached).<br>
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| − | 16. Carefully lower the brace into position, keeping the tray over the brace.<br>
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| − | <br>[[Image:DS2_0247_WEB.jpg]]<br>
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| − | <br>17. Place the small plate through the oval holes and push the two supplied bolts through the brace, car and plats, securing with
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| − | the nuts.<br>
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| − | 18. Bolt the upper brackets into place with the seat hooks placed over the top.<br>
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| − | 19. Tighten all bolts.<br>
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| − | <br>[[Image:DS2_0249_WEB.jpg]]<br>
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| − | <br>20. Now fasten the side panels into place and reattach the rear tray in reverse order to removal.<br>
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| − | 21. Place the TRD emblem over the oval hole.<br>
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| − | 22. Replace the side trays, wheel cover board and carpet liner.<br>
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| − | 23. Replace rear seats in upward position.<br>
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| − | <br>[[Image:DS2_0253_WEB.jpg]]<br>
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| − | <br>Mark J. Walker (Whrrr)
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1 – RMM strut bar (duh)
6 – 12 mm silver bolts
1 – replacement battery hold down
You DON’T need to jack up the car for this install, start by removing the battery connectors, you’ll see why later. Then take off all of the upper strut plate bolts, they will be very, very tight. Make sure not to strip them if you like to have them for later.
Place the strut bar aligned with the strut bolts and just hand tighten the nuts, and place the battery hold down where the factory one used to be. This hold-down will attach to the long battery screw and nut.
NOTE: MAKE SURE YOU DON’T PINCH THE WASHER FLUID LINE ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE ENGINE BAY.
Once you made sure the hose is not pinched, reconnect the battery terminals in a 90-degree angle, that way they won’t touch the bar. Finally, tighten down the nuts to the strut threads with enough force that you don’t strip them.
That’s all to it, it will make a big difference, and more if you have your Celica dropped. The turns are stiffer and there is less body roll and frame twist. Add on the rear 3pt. strut bar or TRD and you will really feel the stiffness of the frame.
