View source for DIY oil change guide

<center>'''DIY oil change instructions'''</center>

== Tool list ==
* 14mm spanner / 14mm socket + ratchet 
* Oil filter removal tool (or a strong grip) 
* Oil drain bowl 
* Trolley type jack (£20 from Halfords etc) 
* Axle stands (£10 from Halfords etc) 
* Funnel 
* Rags 
* Gloves

== Parts list ==
* 3.9 litres of oil (of the specified type, this isn't an oil discussion) 
* Oil filter T90080-91045 £7.00p 
* Oil drain plug gasket T90430-12031 £0.76p 
----
One of the best things we can do as car owners is learn how to change the oil, or as its otherwise known "engine blood"<br>
The filter doesn't do everything you know, it doesn't do anything until the oil's warmed up a bit and then it doesn't do anything above about 3500rpm. The oil plays a major part in keeping an engine clean. When it's turned black, thats dirt, soot, acid and crap.<br>
Changing your oil is something you should be doing every 6000 miles / every 6 months or so, in fact if you only do 3000 miles a year you should STILL be changing it every 6 months. Short journeys kill engine oil.<br>
My prefered mileage is 5000. It's easy to remember ! 

'''Used engine oil is carciogenic (and dirty) Oil from a hot engine can be well over 100 degrees C'''<br> 
Protect yourself, wear rubber gloves and take care around hot things ! 

I use genuine filters, ONLY genuine filters and for good reason.<br>
I work in an industry where the air we breathe is a contaminate and I buy filters by the pallet load, yet I STILL pop down to Toyota to pick up filters for my cars. Does that tell you anything ? 

Before you do anything, take the car for a spin.<br>
It needs a good 20 minute run to be properly hot and to make sure all the crap thats settled out of the oil has mixed in again so it drains out. 

I'm not a big fan of using flushing additives but i know some peopl are and there's certain things you need to know about them. besides, I haven't changed my oil in *cough* miles or *cough* months and my engines pretty clean on the whole so its very unlikely it's going to cause any damage.<br>
Once the oils nice and hot, add the flushing additive if you're using one.<br>
<br>[[Image:diy-oil-change7.jpg]]
 
Now jam something in the idle screw to hold it at about 1500rpm, flushing chemicals aren't lubricants and they dilute the lubricants you do have, cams need lubricants MOST at idle, so don't idle on the stuff and certainly don't drive on it. Leave the engine on a fast idle for a couple of minutes.<br>
(I find a cable tie gives you about 1700rpm)<br> 
<br>[[Image:diy-oil-change8.jpg]] 

Now jack it up, preferably with a trolley type jack and use this lump to jack it up with, not perfect but it's what I use because its strong enough, handy and reachable !<br>
<br>[[Image:diy-oil-change.jpg]] 

Jacks are lifting devices ONLY, not support devices so stick some axle stands under there to protect YOU.<br>
I put them here because its a structural point on the car and provides a good location, you can just see where other people have used the chassis members and actually dented the floor.<br>
<br>[[Image:diy-oil-change2.jpg|left]]
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>I've crawled about under cars for too long now, so I cheat.<br>
<br>[[Image:car ramps.jpg|left]]
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>Now fill the new oil filter with fresh engine oil.<br>
(Don't worry, you haven't missed anything yet ;) )<br>
<br>[[Image:diy-oil-change3.jpg|left]]
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>Before you dive underneath to drain the oil, remove the oil filler cap, this stops the vacuum created from the oil draining slowing down the draining, you want it as fast as possible to sweep all the crap out.<br>
Time to get dirty.<br>
While you're under here, remember things can get mixed up as far as loose and tight goes. So here's a little picture.<br>
<br>[[Image:diy-oil-change4.jpg]]

This is where mechanics little tricks come in, see that drain plug? The only thing stopping the oil coming out is the pressure I'm putting on it, keep pushing it in while you undo it and when it "clicks" its ready to fall out.<br>
The reason I undid it with a spanner yet now have a socket on it is because the socket allows me to hold a hot drain plug obvious eh? ;)<br>
<br>[[Image:diy-oil-change5.jpg]]

Now how many of you end up covered in oil ? Well the secret is to lift "up and away" quickly, not unscrew gradually until it catches you by surprise, falls out and sprays hot oil everywhere.<br>
<br>[[Image:diy-oil-change6.jpg]]

You'll be surprised how far hot oil can shoot, guess the trajectory and score a direct hit if you can (Or cover the area in newspaper or a sheet in case you miss)<br>
Remember that as the flow of oil slows down it'll fall more and more vertically, so keep moving the drain bowl as nessesary.<br>
While you're waiting for the last dribbles to come out go and have a coffee, or run your burnt hand under some cold water for 15 minutes 

Sump plug washers are one use only items, they don't like deforming twice so fit a new one and make sure you get the old one off, it may still be stuck to the sump.<br>
Clean the plug and the plug area of the sump before you refit it.<br>
<br>[[Image:diy-oil-change9.jpg|left]]
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>When you refit the sump plug tighten it by hand, then use a spanner to seat it properly, now tighten it by about "1 flat" (1/6th of a turn) 
Tightening things is something you can either do or you can't. if you can't then theres no shame in using a torque wrench set to 29 ft. lbs (39Nm) (be careful to use the right range and not end up using 39 ft. lbs !!!) 

Now changing the oil filter. This is where the sod is, (the blue thing) Not the worst in the world, but easier if you take the exhaust heat shield off. Though it can be done from the gap behind the exhaust.<br>
<br>[[Image:diy-oil-change10.jpg]] 

I can reach it through there, taking the picture while doing it was a different story !<br>
<br>[[Image:diy-oil-change11.jpg|left]]
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>If you can't reach, or just can't get it undone then take the heat shield off and use an oil filter removal tool.<br>
Don't just spike it with a screwdriver, i've known new OE filters not fit and ended up walking to the shops to get a new one.<br>
<br>[[Image:diy-oil-change13.jpg|left]]
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>It'll lose some oil when you undo it, so stuff some paper towels down there to soak it up (centre feed is a mechanics best friend, and saves you getting an earful for nicking the kitchen towel)<br>
<br>[[Image:diy-oil-change12.jpg]]

Remember you filled the new oil filter? Well that was so the paper soaked up the oil, it makes the system prime quicker and stops it suddenly lose oil as you top it up later. Call me a fussy sod ;)<br>
Now tip out the excess into the oil can, wipe some fresh oil (not grease) around the rubber seal and screw it on.<br>
Screw it down until it seats (take care not to cross thread it, it should spin on easily) then give it another half turn, you shouldn't need a tool, hand tight is tight enough.<br>
<br>[[Image:diy-oil-change14.jpg|left]]
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>Now pour in about 3.5 litres of fresh oil.<br>
Do you suffer from the "glugs" making a mess everywhere when you pour? You don't need fancy oil packaging, just hold the can like this and it won't "glug" all over your engine.<br>
<br>[[Image:diy-oil-change15.jpg|left]]
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>Now wait a good 5 minutes and check the level on the dip stick.<br>
If it's not upto the max mark then add a bit more, but not too much, it takes a few minutes to drain down properly and even i've overfilled this engine before now :oops:<br>
It's about 1 litre between the MIN and MAX marks<br>
DON'T forget to re-fit the oil cap, everyones done it at some time or another 

Run the engine for a couple of minutes on a fast idle and check for leaks around the filter and drain plug. Switch off and wait a good 5 minutes then check the level again.<br>
It's always worth taking it for a spin around the block and checking it again, in fact you should be checking it every time you fill up with fuel 

Now whatever you do, don't tip the oil down the drain. You can buy oil drain cans that can be sealed for putting in the boot and taking to the local tip.<br>
'''We don't own the earth, we're renting it.'''